Tuesday, September 4, 2018

Virgin Island Volume 3

Monday, April 16





We're headed to Anagada.  We've tried once but the winds were a little too much on the nose and
we would have been tacking all day, making it a  5-7 hour journey.

We've moved further east now (Virgin Gorda) so the heading to Anegada now will now be more of a broad reach.

As we get underway, we run out the jib and sail like that for about a fourth of the 22 miles to the island. Things are going well and we decide to set up a reefed mainsail. The winds are generally 13 to 17 mph, but it will be more comfortable with the reef.

As I've noted, raising the main on this boat takes a major effort. Just about the time we get the sail up, one of our locking cams breaks. Although we eventually are able to bypass the lock, at the time it seemed that the most prudent thing to do is drop the main and continue to motor sail with the jib. We make excellent time and arrive after a 3-hour trip.

Anagada is surrounded by reefs and that makes the entry to the anchorage a little tricky. We find the markers and make it safely to the anchorage.

Anagada only has a population of 300 people, so there really isn't a lot here. The Anagada Beach Club is about 4 miles from the anchorage and the taxi ride is $15 per person. While walking around the few Businesses here, we saw that we could rent a truck with seats in the back for $120 a day, so we decide that the cheapest alternative is to rent the truck (we're planning to stay here 2 days).

Anagada is known for being the best location to get lobster. We had a recommendation from a couple we met last night to try the Anagada Beach Club.

We all pile in the truck and ride to the biggest surprise of this trip. The Anagada Beach Club is a very exclusive resort located on the northern side of the island. The hostess at the resort welcomes us, takes us on a tour, and shares many laughs and stories.


Anagada Beach Club



The Expressway around the island was crowded sometimes!

Overall, by far the best dinner and location of the trip.



Tuesday, April 17

Today is a lay day – we stay here in Anegada.

By having the rental truck we are able to schedule for a relaxing day seeing the entire island. The island is only 12 miles long by about 3 miles wide, so seeing the entire island doesn't take a lot.

First, we head to Bologna Bay. Turns out that there's a nice restaurant and a few rental units, although they don't appear busy. We are the first visitors of the day, so we have the beach to ourselves. We quickly get to the goal of the day, snorkeling.

As we've found in every snorkeling location, the fish are somewhat sparse and small. I don't know if it's true or not, but we've heard that the fish were significantly impacted by the hurricane, perhaps killing or moving the fish.

After snorkeling to our heart's content, we get back in the truck and head for the other beach, Cow Wreck Beach. Here we find smoother water (Bologna Bay is on the East side, therefore being impacted by the East Wind). And the water is beautiful.



From Bologna to Cow Wreck while bouncing around in the bed of the truck, we create a new song. I'm not sure where it came from or why but, to the tune of “Under the Boardwalk” we now have:

“Under the armpit, out of the sun!
Under the armpit, we'll be having some fun!
Under the armpit, Armpit!”

We find that the fish are again sparse and small, but the swimming is absolutely wonderful.

And the water is beautiful.





After swimming and snorkeling as much as we can, we head back home!!!

We drive the 3 miles back to the anchorage, turn in the truck and get ready for a final night in Anagada. Jim and I are the only members of the crew who still want lobster, so while everyone else eats on the boat, he and I go to shore for lobster.

I've gone rogue!
Wednesday, April 18

Today is turnaround day.

We've been basically tacking upwind for a week. Now we start the downwind run. This will be easy compared to the upwind run.

We left Anagado early this morning on a course of 180 degrees headed toward North Gorda Sound. The winds were a little South of East, therefore, we had to track about 170 degrees. After a few tacks, we make it to Leverick Bay.

We had some significant problems picking up the mooring. We're still learning! Maybe by the end of the trip, we'll have it figured out.



A little leg!




After an initial walk ashore, we spend the afternoon enjoying the boat.

The interesting thing about Leverick Bay is the lack of visible damage. It looks like and feels like the islands before the storm. I was told by the manager of the dock that the owner of this property is a contractor. It also seems that he must have significant influence to get the materials that are required for reconstruction.

As we leave tomorrow, we'll motor down to The Bitter End facilities on the East end of North Gorda Sound. We've been told that all of the facilities there are gone.

This evening we ate dinner at the restaurant and it seems like nothing ever happened.

Thursday, April 19


One great day of sailing.  We're on the downwind leg!


We raised the full jenny (headsail) and sailed a broad reach to Cooper Island/Machioneel Bay, about 12
miles.  This is what we've been waiting for. We no longer have to tack upwind.


The afternoon was spent snorkeling and swimming.  Part of the crew took the dinghy to the rocks on the
South end of the bay.  There is a strong current that runs through the channel and a few of our snorkelers
got into the current.  But our intrepid dinghy captain, Butch, had stayed on the dinghy and was able to rescue the errant snorkelers. Meanwhile, I had begun to swim and decided to swim the mile or so up to them.
I arrived in the middle of the “crisis” and was able to provide assistance to help to get in the dinghy
(getting into the dinghy is always an interesting exercise to observe – unfortunately/fortunately
I didn't have a camera to record the event.) to rescue the


From the hill overlooking Machioneel Bay


The Cooper Island Book Club

There is a new platform and path to the top of the hill on Cooper Island.  Most of us hike up for a great view.
It appears that the shoreside facilities serving boaters (restaurants/shopping) are fully operational.


Friday, April 20


This morning we decided that we needed a couple more gallons of gas for the dinghy.  We will probably
be using it a little more for longer distances at our next two anchorages.


We roll out the jib for a pleasant reach across Sir Francis Drake Passage to Nanny Cay, get the gas – and
another bottle of rum, then sail across to The Bight at Norman Island.


Again, we find that at least some of the shore facilities are in good or new condition, but the main
restaurant is still under construction.


The afternoon is spent at The Caves, one of the more spectacular rock formations in the islands.  The water was amazingly blue and the visibility underwater is in excess of 75 feet. The fish here are
abundant and varied and we spend a couple hours just drifting among them and watching their antics.


Steve and Jim get a workout.


Above and below the water in the Caves



The fish here have grown used to human interaction (and probably feeding).  They pay no attention to
us as we swim among them.



We've decided that we'll spend two nights here and snorkel some more tomorrow afternoon.  It's that
good!


Lynn and Bob link up

Swimming into the Caves

Some very colorful coral
Another great dinner aboard the boat, a few drinks and we all crash in our cabins.


Saturday, April 21


Today is a snorkelers day.


We tied the dinghy to the mooring we are staying on and took the boat out to the day moorings at the
Caves.


We snorkeled the morning away, had lunch and snorkeled until everyone was waterlogged.


The day moorings provided constant challenges because they are placed close to each other.  On several occasions, we almost touched other boats near us. We placed fenders in strategic locations
around the ship to help fend off potential collisions.



Deep in the Caves
After the afternoon snorkel, we motored back to our mooring and settled in for dinner and a rather boisterous evening.  Sometime during the evening, “Elvira” was playing on the stereo and these old
folks acted young again. You never know!!


Elvira!
Sunday, April 22


We head to one of our favorite anchorage, St John and Salt Pond Bay. This is our last stop before
returning to the base.


We are sailing downwind, and for the first time in several days, we raise the mainsail. It is a monster to
raise and lower, therefore we don't generally use it.  But today, we have a nice opportunity to get out on the “blue water”, raise both sails and enjoy what the boat is supposed to be all about – sailing.




Monday, April 23

We jibe downwind and arrive at Crown Bay Marina to refuel ($403), then motor around the corner to
“home", CYOA, arriving around noon.


We get settled at the dock and everyone except Steve and I take off “downtown” to “shop”.  All they
sell here are jewelry and watches, so there is absolutely nothing of interest to most of the guys.


Steve and I get a call and are told to report to the Green Restaurant facing the water, which we do,
have dinner, come back to the boat and crash.


Tonight we have full hookup, so for the first night in 13 days, we've got air conditioning.  It is nice to have air conditioning, especially when on the dock. But generally, it is cool enough when we are
on a mooring and there is sufficient ventilation to keep the boat cool.

Back to the boat, and our last night.

Tuesday, April 24


All hurry up and do nothing.  Most of the day was spent at the airport terminal.  Probably the most miserable place in the islands. We finally got on the plane for a miserable ride back to Miami.  Can they make the seats on airliners any narroower or uncomfortable?  After landing, we ride with Bob and
Lynn back to home (our motor coach has been parked for two weeks at Markhan Park, a part of the
Broward County Parks system).  A fantastic place. On the way, we stopped for dinner and finally
arrived to find everything in order. Crash!!


Wednesday, April 25


We get up early, do all the required checks for a trip and get underway.  This is a trip home, and both
of us are anxious to get there, so we break our 10-2 or 200 rule and drive to Jacksonville Naval Air
Station  - a fantastic facility.


After we settle in, I find that there is a swimming pool where they train Navy Divers.  I love it! Only
16 laps per mile (compared to 36 at home).


We go to a fantastic Bar B Q restaurant for dinner and have more food on the plate than 5 people
could eat.  Left-overs!!


Thursday, April 26


I kinda played with the idea of driving all the way to Beaufort, but the further North and the longer
the drive, that thought is gone.


Tonight we're at Santee State Park in SC, a place we've enjoyed many times before.

And tomorrow – Beaufort.

Virgin Island Volume 2

Friday, April 13





After a series of decisions, we depart Francis Bay.  Initially, our thought was to head straight to Jost Van
Dyke to clear customs into the Virgin Islands, but on reflection, we decided to clear in at West End on
Tortola.  As it is almost due East into the wind, we don't hoist the sails and motor the few miles.


As we approach West End we begin to see some significant impacts of Hurricane Irma.  We pick up a mooring and the Captain (Steve) goes ashore to take care of the business of clearances.  The prices
have increased significantly for all the fees, including a cruising tax for every person for each day, a
National Parks fee, and other various fees.  In all, it costs over $1500 (nearly $400 per person) just to enter the BVI. It almost seems that the government is trying to discourage tourism, which is their
only industry. Probably my last trip to the BVI. There is plenty around St John for a week.


The facilities where the clearances are issued, along with the ferry terminal are gone.  No buildings are left at all. The clearance office is set up outside under a tent and the ferries just pull up to what remains of the dock to take on passengers.







On the right side of the picture you can see a white tent.  That is where immigration service is set up.  Their building was blown away.
The ladies hang out on the third floor of the boat
Steve soon returned and here we change plans again. We need to pick up some provisions and Nanny
Key is the closest place where there may be our needed items (primarily mixers and rum). We decide that rather than sailing around to Nanny Key, we get a taxi and Linda K, Clara and Lynn take off.


Jim and I decide to go ashore and see if there is anything open while the ladies are gone.  


This is when we begin to see the devastation of the hurricane.  It is really startling. It's been 8 months since the hurricane and there is virtually no work being done, nor does there seem to have been any
significant clean p.  It is very depressing to see one of the more beautiful places we've enjoyed in the
past this bad. And now it seems to be a ghost town. Very eerie.


The ladies return and we quickly drop the mooring and motor over to Jost Van Dyke.  


Having seen what has happened to West End, we don't know what to expect on arrival.


However, Great Harbor/Foxy's is intact and open, along with several other restaurants and shops.  My
guess is that because there were no significant structures, the damage, for the most part has been
repaired.  


Butch and Linda K

Jim

Steve, Linda D and Jim

Steve and Linda D

Dave and Clara

An incredible meal with Fish, Ribs and Chicken with all the fixin's.
However, the government center is closed down because the roof was blown away.  


It's Friday night so we decide to enjoy our first dinner ashore at Foxy's.  It's like there never was a
hurricane. And we all ate too much.


We were always looking off the stern at night to watch the fish.  The boat had blue underwater lights and we could always count on the fish coming to the boat.
Saturday, April 14


Our first choice place this morning is Sand Key, always a favorite.  As we motored toward it from Great
Harbor, we began experiencing strong winds.  After pulling close to the island, we decided that this would not be the best idea because of the winds and tide, so we press on the Cane Garden Bay.  Cane Garden is one of the more beautiful anchorages.


As we approach and start looking for the channel markers to guide us through the reef, we can't find them. Finally, when we are very close we catch a glimpse of the one remaining green entry marker. Having little confidence in the markers after the hurricane, we very carefully find our way into the anchorage.

Eventually, the crew finds its way to shore, some by dinghy and me by swimming.

As with most other places in the BVI, the hurricane impacts are still very visible. Some restaurants are partially operational, and we found one that had a pretty good menu.

Our boat 

Jim's driving the dinghy?

A lot of reconstruction work going on!

Still a long way from normal!




As is the case with all shore facilities the damage is extreme and still, after 8 months, very visible. And there is no visible efforts to complete repairs.

Clara and I, along with Jim, eat ashore while the rest of the crew eat the leftovers from dinner last night at Foxy's.

Jim was invited on the trip in our planning process. He and Steve have known each other from their days in Rapid City SD. Jim is retired Air Force and flew B-52's, so we have a lot in common and I thoroughly enjoy our long discussions.

Sunday, April 15

We make our first attempt to sail to Anagada. We find that the winds are “on the nose” and it's not feasible to go. Our first alternative is Marina Cay. As we approach this beautiful anchorage, we see where one of the most beautiful restaurants in the BVI has blown away. Nothing but the cement walls are left. It looks so bad that we don't even take pictures.   Although there are moorings, we are so disappointed that we decide to sail on to Virgin Gorda.

We had heard that the marina there is open – and they are. When we call in, we inquire as to electric hookups and as we understand the broken English reply, there is. However, as we dock, we are told there isn't. We quickly decided that rather than a two day stay with full hookups, we elect to only stay one night.

Our boat (the one on the left) is really big (50'), but looks small compared to the one behind us!
Spainishtown has been hit hard by the hurricanes. There are many boats in the adjoining boat yard that have been blown over.




We take a taxi to the Baths. The surf is rough and getting into and out of the water is a real challenge, knocking us around quite badly.

But we salvage the day with a walk through the rocks.

Butch and Linda K








Nice dinner ashore.