Joe and I set off for destinations unknown for an indefinite time on Eureka, our 32 foot Island Packet sailboat.
We had hoped to sail offshore toward Wilmington, and the weather was looking like we might be able to do it (i.e. a wind out of any direction other than the Southwest). As we were going out the channel for the yacht club, I started checking the wind forecast. Initially it looked like we would get 10 knots of East wind, but on checking further, I had the wrong area. We had headed toward the Beaufort Inlet before I got it squared away and found that there was essentially no wind forecast for Monday between Cape Lookout and Wilmington - so we turned around and headed North toward the Neuse River.
After a calm ride up the ICW, we managed (Joe) to get stuck on a sandbar near Adams Creek (took the turn to the inside rather than following the markers). We eventually took the anchor out in the dinghy (which was having engine problems) about 100 feet from the direction we had come, dropped it and winched to it, freeing ourselves from the muddy bottom.
We got to the Neuse and there was a nice 10-12 knot Easterly wind blowing, so we spent most of the day tacking
down the river (easterly) to the South River where we spent the evening.After anchoring, we decided it was time to replace the wind indicator at the top of the mast. It had blown off some time ago and I had ordered a new one. We have a nylon strap ladder which can be winched up the mast which can be climbed (supposedly). We don't have a convenient 2nd halyard now that we have a roller furling main on the boat, so we don't have an easy way to help the climber by pulling them up as they climb.
First I tried to climb, but old age, weak muscles, and fear took over about half way up and I decided I wasn't going to make it. Young, strong, healthy Joe (one year younger) immediately tackles the climb with seeming ease. He installs the new anonometer (wind speed) and we align the heading indicator. However, working at the top of the mast with only one hand is ridiculously hard, and upon arrival back at the deck, we find that the wind speed is sticking. So another climb is in order.
Monday, August 16
We awake to NO wind. We decide to motor across the Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke. We go ahead and pull the anchor and set off and have breakfast later. We again run aground (trying to take a shorter route) before we get out of the South River (Joe is getting gunshy).
We have an uneventful trip across the Sound and arrive mid afternoon in Ocracoke. We both immediately jump in and swim for a while. It has been very warm and looks like it's going to stay that way.
After swimming, I decide to tackle the dinghy engine, which isn't running well. After a half hour of trying, a passing boater suggests a new spark plug. We promptly go to shore and start looking in all possible shops for a spark plug for a 3 hp Yamaha. After trampsing up and down the highway for a mile or so, we find a potential substitute. but by then it's time for a beer. We eventually end up at Howard's Pub (a mile out of town) for dinner (and a few more beers). After a long walk back to the boat, we arrive safely. Both Joe and I brought our musical instrument (him guitar - which he does well, and me my bow psaltery - which I don't do well). We can't get the two to work together, but we swap tunes for a while.
Tuesday, Aug 17
We spend the morning working on the dinghy motor some more (nothing accomplished, still runs badly) and Joe climbing the mast to try to get the wind speed indicator working (which we seem to have accomplished).
We decided around noon to go North in the Pamlico Sound to Hatteras Village.
About three hours enroute, we arrive at a very long channel into the village. We weren't at all sure what we'd find, but after some phone calls, it seemed that it is a rarity for sailboats to come in here - and we found out why! Just outside the channel the water depth quickly goes down to 6 feet.
We finally anchor just outside the channel about a quarter mile outside the breakwater in six feet of water. We dive on the anchor to make sure it's in good - and it does appear to be in good shape. There are several fishing boats headed out late in the afternoon, but it should be a great anchorage - far enough offshore that we'll get the breezes, and hopefully quiet and peaceful.Wednesday, August 18
It was not as peaceful a night as we had hoped. We had anchored just outside the channel, and commercial fishing boats leave mighty early in the morning - and they have a big wake.
After checking the weather and finding that the winds are supposed to be SW switching to South, we decide to head toward Swan Quarter. The guidebook gives an interesting description, so we head out.
We had nice 10 knot winds out of the SW, and we sail most of the way across Pamlico Sound. However, we are quite a ways to far North, so we tack back across the Sound with the idea that with one more tack and the winds swinging more Southerly, we can make it up the Pamlico River to Swan Quarter. Well, the winds died down about half way cross. Then we decide to go to Ocracoke, then we decide to go on to Swan Quarter - so we crank up the engine and head West.
The wind gradually fills in from the South throughout the afternoon, and we end up with a perfect broad reach sail for 2 or 3 hours and winds gradually increase to 20 knots - absolutely great sailing. We've probably sailed more today than anytime since we got the boat. Absolutely great!
We had no idea what to expect at Swan Quarter. We called the marina listed, but they didn't give us much information - except they had no showers (we're getting low on water), and we could "just tie up next to one of the other boats in the marina". That should have been enough warning!
It's a long channel into the harbor. Somehow I had it in mind that Swan Quarter would be something like a mini-Oriental with a nice harbor and a waterfront. So far, from what we've seen, it is nothing like that.
There is no waterfront. The only harbor is a long channel filled with commercial fishing vessels (I've never seen so many in one place) with a small turn basin at the end.We end up anchoring on the edge of the "very" small turn basin. Not long after we settle in, a line of thunderstorms come up. First, we decide that we better take advantage of the water (remember, no water) so when it starts to rain, we go on deck with the Joy.
Then the wind comes up and all of a sudden the stern of the boat is nearly in the trees around the turn basin. So in the middle of the storm, we up anchor and move more to the center - which isn't much better because the turn basin is only a couple hundred feet across.
We ride out the storm and it cools off. It may turn into a nice evening.
Thursday, August 19
The night was the coolest one we've had on the trip. It was quiet in the anchorage and no bugs. A good night.
Thursday morning we decide to eat breakfast out. In the guide book it referred to the "one" restaurant in town (combined with a laundromat) and we decided to check it out. We took the dinghy to shore to what looked like an abandoned fish house. There was a guy on the dock with whom we struck up a conversation. He told us he did a lot of things, and he owned a "bullet proof" boat with a big engine that would go 43 mph. He showed it to us. I'd hate to be in it - period, much less going 43 mph.
He offered to ride us the quarter mile to "the" restaurant, which we took him up on.
The restaurant was rustic and barren, but they did serve breakfast, which we order - then back to the boat. We saw all of Swan Quarter from the intersection next to the restaurant. It appears that the name is bigger than the town.
After getting back to the harbor, I went to shore to see what was going on a nearby fish house.
I spent the next hour watching shrimp being headed, sorted by size, and packaged for shipping.
I talked to the co-owner - Madge Williams - of the fish house, "Hobo Seafood".
This is one of the few remaining businesses in NC that catches and processes shrimp and scallops. Madge and her husband, Lee own a fleet of 17 fishing boats that are scattered along the coast from NC to New England.Although the setting was not the best, this turns out for me to be one of the highlights of the week. It was a "very" unusual place to stay overnight, but turned out to be the most interesting one.
As we head out of the harbor, we decide that with the forecast winds, we might as well go back across the Pamlico Sound to Ocracoke. The winds start out light - enough to put up the sails, and a couple hours later die out completely. We then decide to go into the Neuse River. The winds never fill in for the day and we end up in Broad Creek (near Whartonsville). We are low on water so we do go into Whartonsville (another town with a name as big as the town) and top off our water tanks.
We anchor well off shore to help combat the black flies and mosquitos and have a quiet evening. That evening we decide we might as well head on back home Friday.
Friday, August 20
We wake up to a fresh Easterly breeze and after a lazy start, have a great day of sailing, stopping in Oriental for lunch and then down the ICW to MBYC - thus ending a really neat sailing trip.
