Virgin Island Volume 2

Friday, April 13

After a series of decisions, we depart Francis Bay.  Initially, our thought was to head straight to Jost Van
Dyke to clear customs into the Virgin Islands, but on reflection, we decided to clear in at West End on
Tortola.  As it is almost due East into the wind, we don't hoist the sails and motor the few miles.

As we approach West End we begin to see some significant impacts of Hurricane Irma.  We pick up a mooring and the Captain (Steve) goes ashore to take care of the business of clearances.  The prices
have increased significantly for all the fees, including a cruising tax for every person for each day, a
National Parks fee, and other various fees.  In all, it costs over $1500 (nearly $400 per person) just to enter the BVI. It almost seems that the government is trying to discourage tourism, which is their

only industry. Probably my last trip to the BVI. There is plenty around St John for a week.

The facilities where the clearances are issued, along with the ferry terminal are gone.  No buildings are left at all. The clearance office is set up outside under a tent and the ferries just pull up to what remains of the dock to take on passengers.

On the right side of the picture you can see a white tent.  That is where immigration service is set up.  Their building was blown away.

The ladies hang out on the third floor of the boat

Steve soon returned and here we change plans again. We need to pick up some provisions and Nanny

Key is the closest place where there may be our needed items (primarily mixers and rum). We decide that rather than sailing around to Nanny Key, we get a taxi and Linda K, Clara and Lynn take off.

Jim and I decide to go ashore and see if there is anything open while the ladies are gone.  

This is when we begin to see the devastation of the hurricane.  It is really startling. It's been 8 months since the hurricane and there is virtually no work being done, nor does there seem to have been any
significant clean p.  It is very depressing to see one of the more beautiful places we've enjoyed in the
past this bad. And now it seems to be a ghost town. Very eerie.

The ladies return and we quickly drop the mooring and motor over to Jost Van Dyke.  

Having seen what has happened to West End, we don't know what to expect on arrival.

However, Great Harbor/Foxy's is intact and open, along with several other restaurants and shops.  My
guess is that because there were no significant structures, the damage, for the most part has been
repaired.  

Butch and Linda K

Jim

Steve, Linda D and Jim

Steve and Linda D

Dave and Clara

An incredible meal with Fish, Ribs and Chicken with all the fixin's.

However, the government center is closed down because the roof was blown away.  

It's Friday night so we decide to enjoy our first dinner ashore at Foxy's.  It's like there never was a
hurricane. And we all ate too much.

We were always looking off the stern at night to watch the fish.  The boat had blue underwater lights and we could always count on the fish coming to the boat.

Saturday, April 14

Our first choice place this morning is Sand Key, always a favorite.  As we motored toward it from Great
Harbor, we began experiencing strong winds.  After pulling close to the island, we decided that this would not be the best idea because of the winds and tide, so we press on the Cane Garden Bay.  Cane Garden is one of the more beautiful anchorages.

As we approach and start looking for the channel markers to guide us through the reef, we can't find them. Finally, when we are very close we catch a glimpse of the one remaining green entry marker. Having little confidence in the markers after the hurricane, we very carefully find our way into the anchorage.

Eventually, the crew finds its way to shore, some by dinghy and me by swimming.

As with most other places in the BVI, the hurricane impacts are still very visible. Some restaurants are partially operational, and we found one that had a pretty good menu.

Our boat 

Jim's driving the dinghy?

A lot of reconstruction work going on!

Still a long way from normal!

As is the case with all shore facilities the damage is extreme and still, after 8 months, very visible. And there is no visible efforts to complete repairs.

Clara and I, along with Jim, eat ashore while the rest of the crew eat the leftovers from dinner last night at Foxy's.

Jim was invited on the trip in our planning process. He and Steve have known each other from their days in Rapid City SD. Jim is retired Air Force and flew B-52's, so we have a lot in common and I thoroughly enjoy our long discussions.

Sunday, April 15

We make our first attempt to sail to Anagada. We find that the winds are “on the nose” and it's not feasible to go. Our first alternative is Marina Cay. As we approach this beautiful anchorage, we see where one of the most beautiful restaurants in the BVI has blown away. Nothing but the cement walls are left. It looks so bad that we don't even take pictures.   Although there are moorings, we are so disappointed that we decide to sail on to Virgin Gorda.

We had heard that the marina there is open – and they are. When we call in, we inquire as to electric hookups and as we understand the broken English reply, there is. However, as we dock, we are told there isn't. We quickly decided that rather than a two day stay with full hookups, we elect to only stay one night.

Our boat (the one on the left) is really big (50'), but looks small compared to the one behind us!

Spainishtown has been hit hard by the hurricanes. There are many boats in the adjoining boat yard that have been blown over.

We take a taxi to the Baths. The surf is rough and getting into and out of the water is a real challenge, knocking us around quite badly.

But we salvage the day with a walk through the rocks.

Butch and Linda K

Nice dinner ashore.