St John, USVI

Sun, Mar 30

Today we drove from Beaufort to Nashville to see Dad and spend some time with him. He is doing really well to be 98 years old, but doesn't seem to understand why we want to leave again. He thinks the only time we come to see him is when we're going somewhere.  That's probably because we leave so often.

Tonight we're staying at La Quinta near the Raleigh Durham Airport tonight because they will let us keep our car there while we're gone.

Mon, Mar 31

After what seemed like a relatively short flight --- We're here.

It's warm!!!!!

The worst part of this vacation (but vacation is not the right word when you are retired - maybe change of scene) is over – the flight here. We had no problems and the flights were on time, but it isn't a lot of fun these days flying commercial aircraft.

When we got to our hotel, which is right next to the airport and where we've stayed before, our room wasn't ready, so they gave us a couple of coupons for drinks at their bar on the beach.

As we sat down in the beachfront bar, we got into a conversation with another couple, Ron and Jane. They keep their boat here all year, and come down for three months (Jan, Feb, Mar) each year from Connecticut. We enjoyed talking and ended up eating dinner with them. It was a fun evening and a great way of to start our trip.

We have definitely decided that we don't care much for the “bag drag” that goes with staying in hotels. I can't imagine that we would do much traveling if we had to stop every night and stay in a hotel. It is miserable compared to having our motor home with everything in it, and we know where everything is.  Additionally, we find that we don't like having anything scheduled (like airline flights).  About the only thing that we have scheduled anymore are doctors appointment.

It's hard to believe how much time we spend looking for stuff – and we only have two suitcases. I guess it's a small sacrifice with what we have to look forward to.

Tues, Apr 1

This morning – breakfast, land taxi, water taxi, rental car. Before noon we are in Cruz Bay, St John, US Virgin Islands.

This evening we have what would have to be one of the most incredible views where we are staying that there can possibly be.

We are staying in an “eco camp” , Estate Concorida, on the Southeast side of St John. Years ago we stayed here with Bill and Jan. This time instead of a “building”, we are staying in a tent, or at least it has some features of a tent – like canvas wall and ceiling. But it is very much a substantial structure. We were upgraded to the “deluxe” model when we arrived, which means there is sleeping room for 5 people – an upstairs loft – probably designed for kids. 

All electricity is by solar panels. The panels charge 12 volt batteries during the day, and water for showers and the sink is from cisterns. We have to go to watering stations located on the property to fill our 2 gallon canisters for our potable (drinking) water. The “gray” water (sink and shower) is used for watering plants on the property (they don't get a lot of rain here) and the “black” water (human waste) goes through a composting process. But it is definitely self sufficient.

Solar water heater in bathroom section of tent.

The unit is laid out in two sections, one for sleeping and eating and the other is the bathroom which is separated by a few steps. The bathroom also has the water heater, a solar heated water tank for the shower, and there is a composting toilet. In the main unit, there is a small refrigerator that is 120 volt and there must be an inverter for its power (we also charge our electronic toys from its plug).

We are overlooking Salt Pond Bay, one of our favorite snorkeling places in the Virgin Islands. We have spent several nights on a mooring here in the past when we're sailing and we've always enjoyed this place.

This afternoon, after settling into our “eco tent”, we drive down to Salt Pond Bay (just a short drive) and spent the afternoon snorkeling. It is great to be back in the water here. It is beautifully clear and the fish and coral are beautiful.

Tonight, there is only one boat in the Bay. (Next week, that could be us)

Tonight we went to Shipwreck Landing restaurant for a light dinner. Returning to our tent was an unanticipated adventure, as we didn't have a flashlight and there is minimal lighting along all the walkways. The walkways are all elevated wooden structures connecting all the tents, swimming pool, pavilion and other features.

The roads here on St John are among the steepest we've ever encountered.  We've rented a 4 wheel drive jeep and I can easily understand why most of the cars here are jeeps.

To add the the confusion, we drive on the left side of the road.

There is no moon tonight and it is truly dark. From our deck we can only see one light – a single masthead light on the only boat moored in Salt Pond Bay.

Wed, Apr 2

There's a saying “The worst day here (St John) is better than the best day there (Home)”. Well, I guess today was not the best day here (St John), but it was still pretty doggone good.

It rained!!

The weather forecast said that it was a 50% chance of rain, and we got our 50% (maybe 30%). But it wasn't too bad. I think we actually enjoyed resting here at the tent with the rain coming down. We can definitely hear the pitter-patter of the rain drops on the canvas roof.

But before it rained, we met our friend Pat for lunch at Miss Lucy's restaurant. We met Pat at the Orchard at Altapass about 3 years ago at their annual benefit auction. They had put a weeks stay in their guest room in St. John up for auction and luckily, we were the high bidder. We spent a week with them two years ago. They also have a home in Western NC and we got together with them in Spruce Pine last year.

Pat is leaving tomorrow to go back to WNC, so we were fortunate that she had time for lunch with us.

We have fond memories of the week here with her and Dave.

The Goat Story:  While we were sitting at our table at Miss Lucy's, we were attached by a goat!  First of all, there are goats (and donkeys) everywhere around here.  We often find them lying in the road sunning, or in yards and just everywhere.  Miss Lucy's is right next to a goat pen.  I don't really think that the pen keeps the goats in, it just provides a place for the goats to go to when they get tired of roaming the area.  Anyway, I notice this goat walking across the parking lot - a fairly large goat.  It comes nearer and nearer the tables and all of a sudden it's right next to Clara and before anyone could react, the goat had its front hoofs on the table. We all yelled and it immediately jumped down and ran off.  Apparently this is a fairly common because we learned from the waitress that the goat is named  "Satin".  

Clara protects here pina colada from "Satan"

This evening we stopped at a sandwich shop down the mountain and picked up a sandwich for dinner and tonight we had dinner in the best setting in the Virgin Island, the deck at our tent.

Hard to believe, but didn't go snorkeling today.  We WILL go snorkeling tomorrow, rain or shine.

Thurs, Apr 3

Estate Concordia is basically built on the side of a very steep mountain. It appears that the slope is around 40-45 degrees on most of the property. Stanley Selengut, who envisioned and developed this property, starting with 18 tent cottages in 1976 must have been either crazy or an incredible visionary.

The maintenance and upkeep of these tents and building must be incredibly expensive. Just getting materials would be a logistical nightmare.

But the views have to be the best in the islands.

This morning we started early – breakfast, then snorkeling until after lunch. I don't believe that Clara would have quit then, except we didn't have much food with us when we went to Salt Pond Bay (about a 3 minute drive from here).

We snorkeled quite a ways off shore to a few rocks sticking up in the middle of the bay. The water is much clearer farther from shore and we could see for 50-75 feet under water. We had numerous encounters with sea turtles, watching them go down the 20+ feet to the bottom, munch on whatever they eat (I guess it's sea grass), then slowly swim to the surface, grab a gulp of air, and back down again.

The fish and coral in the bay are among the best in the islands.

The afternoon was spent relaxing back in our tent and just enjoying the beautiful view. Late this evening we had a couple of rain showers (one while we were on the way back from dinner). We ate at the restaurant here on the estate. There was absolutely no reason to leave.

As this picture depicts, there are cacti growing on the island - and a beautiful woman standing on the porch.  

Tomorrow the rest of the week one sailing crew arrives, so it will be a hectic day – then a week of sailing.