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| The Baths, British Virgin Islands |
Sat, Apr 12
Transition Day!
Today we change crews, boats, and
locations.
We end our charter with CYOA and I say
goodbye to Joe, Vickey, Craig, Terry, Art, MK, and Clara as they head
back home.
And today, David, Slade, John Whelan, Mark Conlon, Matt Durant and I board a
ferry in Charlotte Amalie to Roadtown, Tortola, BVI for what will
probably be a very different sailing experience.
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| On the ferry, John and Slade are doing selfies, or maybe John is talking to his Brazilian girlfriend |
This trip planning was started last summer when
Slade and David Dye were out on Slade's boat one day and called me to
see if I'd be willing to charter a boat in the BVI sometime for a
group of guys. I immediately agreed and that set in motion this
three week vacation.
We meet up with the rest of the crew, Jeff Manning and Mike
Springle in Roadtown.
This group of seven diverse individuals have been friends
for years. Their most recent excursion that I've heard about is a
ski trip to Utah a few years ago. Some of their roots seem to have
started at Ericsson when a few of them worked together years ago, and
some of the roots are from the Hibernian Thursday night “Pub
Night”. They've maintained their relationships over the years,
meeting weekly for drinks and fun.
We have dinner at Pusser's in downtown
Roadtown, lots of laughs and we're ready for a fun week.
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| Mike says Hello!!! to the Painkiller |
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| The crew at Pussers |
Tonight, we're spending a the night in
a bed that doesn't rock and roll all night at the Mariner Inn, base
for the Moorings, our next charter company.
Sun, Apr 13
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| "Pub, Pillage and Plunder", the crew flag, developed specifically for this voyage. There were 8 flags. One flew each day of the adventure and afterwards was presented to a crew member. |
A casual morning waiting to get on our
boat – breakfast, chart briefing, chatting and finally around 11:30
they call us and our boat is ready.
Of course we've been looking at the
boats, and we've already picked out the exact boat we want – Rum
'N' Coke. We've been watching all the 48 foot cats being prepped
all morning, and it's beginning to look like there's only one boat
left – Rum 'N' Coke.
When I get the call
– it's ours!!!
And believe it or
not, we don't have any rum nor any coke ordered. I immediately run
to the dock and buy a bottle of rum and a 12 pack of Coke. Now we're
set to go.
The crew is very
attentive at the boat briefing. We have a variety of sailing
experience on the crew, but none of us has sailed a catamaran this
big, thus the attentiveness.
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| Left to right: Matt, John, Slade, David, Dave, Mike, Jeff and Mark |
Then it's finally
time to leave. We get out of the harbor and successfully get the
sails up, the GPS destination set and we're off the “The Bight”
on Norman Island.
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| I wanna go sailing!!!! |
We quickly get the
hang of the boat, review procedures for dropping the sails and pick
up a mooring. As we approach the mooring field, we quickly realize
we're late today and there are no moorings available. But as we
cruise in, we finally see one near shore. As we approach it, we find
that there is no painter on it (the line we are supposed to pick and
and secure to our boat).
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| "This way Captain!" |
We make some quick
decisions and decide we can use some of our dock lines to tie up to
the mooring and have successfully done so.
After settling in,
some hit the water and our four divers on board get there dive
equipment ready and do a short test dive to check everything.
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| "Look Ma, no hands" |
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| Loose four ship formation |
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| "I'm okay, where's the gin?" |
After
a dinner of sandwiches (we've got lots of bread and need to use it up
before it goes stale – which it does quickly in this damp air), the
7 guys take off for Willie T's. At this point, I don't know when to
expect them back on the boat. I just hope they can find the boat..
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| The party's at Willie T's. What happens at Willie T's stays at Willie T's |
Mon, Apr 14
We've started with
a bang. We had a our first man overboard drill this morning when I
had to empty my bag on deck to clean out a box full of spilled
granola and promptly lost a a pair of briefs overboard. Our resident
dive specialist John promptly dove in to rescue them and earned the
cudos of the Captain.
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| John to the rescue - of the captains underwear!! Cudos from the captain. |
Breakfast, motor to
the caves, snorkel the caves, motor a couple hundred yards, then the
divers took the dinghy to Angelfish Reef for a short dive.
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| The dinghy is riding low in the water with all the dive equipment on board |
Today's “Captain”
is Springle.
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| Captain Springle at the helm |
It's going to be fun watching each of the crew rotate
through the “Captain” position. Each of the crew members is
quickly picking up on the duties that need to be done when picking up
a mooring, raising the sails, dropping the sails, setting the anchor, and making the pointy end of the boat go where they want it to go.
The important duties, kitchen, dinghy captain, cleaning decks,
electrical, etc are basically assigned to a team for the week (unless
they complain about the food, then KP goes to the complainer).
Anchoring, mooring, helm, rotate, with every member of the crew
having the opportunity to experience each position.
Everyone seems
excited and willing to take on any task.
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| The excited crew! |
Jeff Manning
volunteered early on to be “Quarter Master” and what a great
choice. He has handled all the details of paperwork before arrival,
collecting and making payments, and provisioning. He even secured a
credit card which awards points and has no international surcharge to
be used for all charges we incur that can be put on a credit card.
If we all eat out, he collects the bill, sorts out who ate what, how
much each individuals drinks are, and will tally at the end of the
trip for each individual. A great guy to have on the task.
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| Jeff served as the Purser and as 2nd Assistant Cook. We did not go hungry! |
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| Jeff keeps a detailed journal of every expense, even poker losses. |
Overall, a great crew!
After the diving,
we raised the sail for a sail up Sir Francis Drake Channel tacking
into the wind heading for Cooper Island and dinner ashore. Mike is
really enjoying working the helm and doing a great job.
Last night around 1
am there was a lunar eclipse, referred to as the Blood Moon. I awoke
in my bunk and noticed that outside it was very dark for a full moon,
so got up to the deck. I hit it perfectly – the moon was a faded
red in full eclipse, a very unique sight. I found out this morning
that most of the crew had been up earlier at the start of the
eclipse, but had gone back to bed before I got up. It was definitely
a unique experience.
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| The "Blood Moon" Eclipse |
As Captain, I've done my best to make sure that each crew member understands that "you do not hold a the main halyard when lowering the sail". Unfortunately, one of the crew members (John) does not remember all that the Captain said.
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| Ignoring the Captains direction results in consequences! |
And Wow! A busy
day. We're trying to do it all, and doing a good job of it.
BEFORE breakfast,
the dive crew was on the wreck of the Rhone, one of the best dives
around. The dinghy captain and mate took the four divers around the
corner from our anchorage to the wreck. Later, Mark and I up
anchored the boat and motored around the corner and picked up a
mooring next to the wreck to await the return of the rest of the crew
from their dive.
(Side note from the
Divers – the Rhone is one of the best known wrecks in the
Caribbean. It sank in the late 1800's trying to escape a Hurricane.
It broke in half during the storm and it makes for a phenomenal dive.
We started on the bow in close to 70 feet of water, then made a
short swim over to the stern where it runs to shore in only 10 feet.)
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| Captain Durant at the helm. |
After the dive, we
quickly dropped the mooring and sailed out under Captain Durant
today. A few tacks and we are at the Baths, the iconic image of the
BVI. All the moorings were taken, so we found a spot to drop our
anchor and 5 of the crew took off in the dinghy to explore the caves.
(Side note from the landing party . . . of great importance at the
Baths was the fact that we ran out of beer on day 1 and “Poor Man's
Bar” at the Bath's was the first place to catch another cold one –
we all indulged quickly!)
A couple hours
later they had returned, we fired up the engine under Capt Manning
and raced toward Marina Key to try and get a mooring.
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| Captain Manning commits two unheard of screw-ups. He motors AND he uses the autopilot. |
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| Manning and Springle are ready for the weather. What weather???? |
As we closed on
the mooring field, we quickly realized that all the moorings are all
taken, so turn toward Trellis Bay. Weaving through boats in the
anchorage, we finally gave up on finding anyplace to anchor and head
back to Marina Cay.
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| David needs a quiet nappy poo! |
We found a fairly
good spot and dropped the anchor. John dived on the anchor to ensure
that it was set. We felt confident we were safe, so we settled in
for a great evening, capped by dinner ashore on Marina Cay.
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| A beautiful setting to enjoy an evening ashore |
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| The Internet deprived crew immediately dives into their phones to check on business - while in paradise???? |
A full moon,
tropical breezes and quiet evening. Nothing better!
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| Moonrise on Marina Cay |
Wed, Apr 16
When does it get
boring? Not yet! Maybe never!
Sail, snorkel,
dive, sail, mooring, drinks, dinner, fun. It just doesn't get old.
We left Marina Cay early, headed to Great Dog, some of the best snorkeling from last
week and this week doesn't disappoint. The dive crew heads over to
Cockroach Island to dive, Jeff and Mark take the kayaks and I
snorkel/swim.
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| As I was snorkeling around, I noticed this young kid floating effortlessly through the water |
Captain Whelan guides the boat out to sea for a fine sail in light winds, then to North Gorda Sound and Leverick Bay.
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| Captain Wehlan takes over the helm |
The afternoon is
spent chilling on the boat, followed by a another fun evening ashore.
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| Leverick Bay |
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| The Captain is happy! |
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| The purser is hhhaaaapppppyyy! |
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| John joins the competition to see who can blow the conch the longest. John - 3 seconds, the winner 58. |
My lips are
actually getting chapped from having the snorkel in my mouth so much.
We have snorkeled and swam every day for hours.
Thurs, Apr 17
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| The crew doesn't trust the GPS or line-of-sight navigation, so they break out the trusty compass, dividers, and map0 |
Today is a sailing
day with Captain Slade at the helm. We wanted to get some more water
this morning. We've used up over half of what we have, and everyone
would like a shower. Captain Slade does an excellent job of holding
the boat off the dock while waiting for a space to clear, then brings
the boat perfectly to the dock.
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| We buy conch shell which are adapted to be able to blow on. Maybe we should have bought the shells earlier and let John practice. He may have been able to have lasted more than 3 seconds. |
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| Captain Slade at the helm |
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| I have no idea why they are so happy! |
After re-watering,
we raise the sails and head out of North Gorda Sound.
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| Flying downwind wing-on-wing |
Finally the wind
has picked up a little, ranging from 20-25 knots. With this, we do a
broad reach several miles offshore and then turn toward Cane Garden
Bay. We got the weather - a squall in the open ocean that by the time
we reach North Carolina will have reached Hurricane status in our
eyes.
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| By this time in the journey, everyone knows their duties when picking up a mooring and it is done to perfection. It is critical that ONE person on deck provide visual signals to the helmsman to indicate exactly where the mooring ball is located because he can no longer see it when it's close to the front of the boat. |
After reaching Cane
Garden Bay we have our 2
nd Man Overboard drill.
Apparently Mark's cabin developed a leak during the week so he put
his mattress cover on the deck to dry out. Mother Nature needed a
good laugh and promptly dumped it in the ocean for Slade to track
down. (Not to be outdone John jumped in for it the next morning when
it flew off again).
Tonight, the cook
and cook's mate fix a great dinner of T-bone steaks and salmon
steaks.
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| This is not T-bone steak. This be a Cheeseburger in Paradise! |
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| We were served elegant meals by our team on KP duty - Head Cook, John Wehlan, First Assistant, Jeff Manning, and Mike Springle 2nd Assistant and dishwasher (sometimes). |
Later we notice a
motor somewhere in the hull running continuously. A little research
by our head engineer, Matt, determines that the port low level bilge
alarm is running. After a call back to Moorings base, we are told to
cut the wires and they will send someone over tomorrow to replace the
pump.
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| Head engineer Matt checks out the electrical panel looking for a warning buzzer that won't shut up. The buzzers only purpose is to warn us if we're sinking!!!! |
Today, for the
first time since last week, the winds are picking up into the 20's.
This makes for our first real sailing experience this week and we
head offshore on the North side of Tortola toward Cane Garden Bay.
Fri, Apr 18
“Foxy's, Foxy's,
this is Rum 'N' Coke”
“ Rum 'N' Coke dis es Fooxy's, wich
to 11”
“Foxy's, this is Rum 'N' Coke on 11”
“Rum 'N' Coke, dis es Fooxy's ona 11”
“Roger, Rum 'N' Coke request
reservations for 8 tonight at 6:30”
“Rum 'N' Coke, no reddy 6:30, reddy
7”
“Roger, 8 at 7 for Rum 'N' Coke”
“Yu goot it, Fooxy's out”
Since the first day, I've been looking
forward to this conversation. Rum 'N' Coke and Foxy's goes together
perfectly. Foxy's is the iconic stop over in the islands,
memorialized by Jimmy Buffet and many others.
Captain Dye (with a little help from his 'buddy') took us out of Cane Garden
Bay on for the best sail to date.
Winds running a steady 20 with
gust to 27 knots. The Captain set us up for a great close reach
through 30 foot seas (that's the story we're sticking to) taking
green water over the bow and foam flying in our wake. John was the
only member of the crew to ride out the entire morning on the bow
where he bounced like a yo-yo. After an invigorating sail, we turn
downwind to Sandy Cay, turn into the wind, drop the sails and motor
in.
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| John rides out 30 foot seas guarding the bow. The picture just does not do justice to the gigantic waves and pounding waves breaking over the bow. |
Unfortunately, all the moorings are
taken and after trying to get an anchor to hold twice, the crew
decides they'd rather go to Foxy's – so we start up the iron genny and get to Great Harbor and a mooring. The wind is howling this
afternoon and we're glad we're secured to the mooring as we watch the
show as other boats come in picking up moorings and anchoring.
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| Why is John pointing at Rio De Janerio? |
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| Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke |
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| The "Y" Team makes it to Foxy's |
A call this morning from the Moorings
made it clear that that we won't be getting the bilge pump fixed
today, “We're on island time, Mon, you can get it fixed when you get back to the dock”.
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| The people who work here definitely have life figured out! |
The crew was sorely disappointed when
they headed to shore on Jost Van Dyke this afternoon to learn it was
Good Friday and Bars can't serve drinks until 6:30. Oh well, back to
boat for “provisioning” and an afternoon nap. Then to Foxy's for
dinner, ogling, and drinking!! Or was it drinking, ogling and
dinner? Not real sure.
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| Dinner at Foxy's |
Sat, Apr 19
First on this busy day, we motor to
Sandy Skit under Captain Springle, drop an anchor, and Slade, John,
and Mark head out for their final dive of the trip. After a quick
snack, the adventure of the day begins.
The winds are 20-30 and the seas are
running strong. We broad reach across toward the channel between
Tortola and Big Thatch on a perfect sail. Then Captain Springle
decides that the Easternmost channel is to narrow for our big boat
and elects to sail around the westernmost island.
At this location, the winds are
funneled between islands and as soon as we come out of the lee of the
islands in Sir Francis Drake Passage, we hit 30+ knot winds. Now we
find out why we should have reefed the main earlier. This boat
cannot be controlled with a full main in these winds, and we soon
learn this in very real terms. First the lines to the jib wrap
around each other, creating a dangerous tangle of knots in the lines.
The only way to get the tangle out is to turn into the waves, climb
on deck in pitching seas and spend the next few minutes loosening the
many knots, taking three of the crew to accomplish this.
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| This is a image of the GPS track on Saturday. We're travelinig from left to right (upwind). You may note on the left side of image that the line seems to indicate some movement backward. That is precisely where we realized that the boat does not sail to windward without reefing the mainsail. |
Now we realize we're going to have to
put a reef in the main, so for the next several minutes we are
cranking in the reef. Now Captain Springle is able to control the
boat and we are able to start tacking up the channel toward Roadtown.
We tack up the channel comfortably and
finally, it's time to drop the sails and motor in. We've decided
that rather than spending the night on an anchorage, we'll spend the
night on the dock and have plenty of time in the morning to get
everything ready to leave the boat and go home.
I take the helm to bring us in and head
in between the red and green markers and soon realize “I'm in the
wrong $^*% harbor”. A 180 turn and we're back out for the final
two miles to Roadtown and the Moorings. In the GPS image below, you may note that the boat heads into the harbor twice. (There are no other records of this mistake).
Now the overheat warning comes on and I
shut down one engine – glad that there are two.
We're finally at the dock and I assume
that one of the dockhands will come in and back the boat into the
slip. WRONG! I'm to back it in. Backing an unfamiliar boat was not
on my list. Somehow, we get the boat on the dock, tie up, and have a
drink.
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| This was a great adventure. It was my pleasure to serve as Captain for this great bunch of guys. |
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| The crew after a week of fun. |
Sunday, Apr 20
Today is the final day of a once-in-a-lifetime adventure. It's hard to believe all that we've packed into three weeks in this paradise. I only hope that it won't be the last time we do this.
A total of 15 people have shared in this adventure. And it all started with a phone call several months ago in which Slade asked "Dad, can you charter a boat in the Virgin Islands for a bunch of us guys?"
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