Virgin Island Volume 2

Friday, April 13

After a series of decisions, we depart Francis Bay.  Initially, our thought was to head straight to Jost Van
Dyke to clear customs into the Virgin Islands, but on reflection, we decided to clear in at West End on
Tortola.  As it is almost due East into the wind, we don't hoist the sails and motor the few miles.

As we approach West End we begin to see some significant impacts of Hurricane Irma.  We pick up a mooring and the Captain (Steve) goes ashore to take care of the business of clearances.  The prices
have increased significantly for all the fees, including a cruising tax for every person for each day, a
National Parks fee, and other various fees.  In all, it costs over $1500 (nearly $400 per person) just to enter the BVI. It almost seems that the government is trying to discourage tourism, which is their

only industry. Probably my last trip to the BVI. There is plenty around St John for a week.

The facilities where the clearances are issued, along with the ferry terminal are gone.  No buildings are left at all. The clearance office is set up outside under a tent and the ferries just pull up to what remains of the dock to take on passengers.

On the right side of the picture you can see a white tent.  That is where immigration service is set up.  Their building was blown away.

The ladies hang out on the third floor of the boat

Steve soon returned and here we change plans again. We need to pick up some provisions and Nanny

Key is the closest place where there may be our needed items (primarily mixers and rum). We decide that rather than sailing around to Nanny Key, we get a taxi and Linda K, Clara and Lynn take off.

Jim and I decide to go ashore and see if there is anything open while the ladies are gone.  

This is when we begin to see the devastation of the hurricane.  It is really startling. It's been 8 months since the hurricane and there is virtually no work being done, nor does there seem to have been any
significant clean p.  It is very depressing to see one of the more beautiful places we've enjoyed in the
past this bad. And now it seems to be a ghost town. Very eerie.

The ladies return and we quickly drop the mooring and motor over to Jost Van Dyke.  

Having seen what has happened to West End, we don't know what to expect on arrival.

However, Great Harbor/Foxy's is intact and open, along with several other restaurants and shops.  My
guess is that because there were no significant structures, the damage, for the most part has been
repaired.  

Butch and Linda K

Jim

Steve, Linda D and Jim

Steve and Linda D

Dave and Clara

An incredible meal with Fish, Ribs and Chicken with all the fixin's.

However, the government center is closed down because the roof was blown away.  

It's Friday night so we decide to enjoy our first dinner ashore at Foxy's.  It's like there never was a
hurricane. And we all ate too much.

We were always looking off the stern at night to watch the fish.  The boat had blue underwater lights and we could always count on the fish coming to the boat.

Saturday, April 14

Our first choice place this morning is Sand Key, always a favorite.  As we motored toward it from Great
Harbor, we began experiencing strong winds.  After pulling close to the island, we decided that this would not be the best idea because of the winds and tide, so we press on the Cane Garden Bay.  Cane Garden is one of the more beautiful anchorages.

As we approach and start looking for the channel markers to guide us through the reef, we can't find them. Finally, when we are very close we catch a glimpse of the one remaining green entry marker. Having little confidence in the markers after the hurricane, we very carefully find our way into the anchorage.

Eventually, the crew finds its way to shore, some by dinghy and me by swimming.

As with most other places in the BVI, the hurricane impacts are still very visible. Some restaurants are partially operational, and we found one that had a pretty good menu.

Our boat 

Jim's driving the dinghy?

A lot of reconstruction work going on!

Still a long way from normal!

As is the case with all shore facilities the damage is extreme and still, after 8 months, very visible. And there is no visible efforts to complete repairs.

Clara and I, along with Jim, eat ashore while the rest of the crew eat the leftovers from dinner last night at Foxy's.

Jim was invited on the trip in our planning process. He and Steve have known each other from their days in Rapid City SD. Jim is retired Air Force and flew B-52's, so we have a lot in common and I thoroughly enjoy our long discussions.

Sunday, April 15

We make our first attempt to sail to Anagada. We find that the winds are “on the nose” and it's not feasible to go. Our first alternative is Marina Cay. As we approach this beautiful anchorage, we see where one of the most beautiful restaurants in the BVI has blown away. Nothing but the cement walls are left. It looks so bad that we don't even take pictures.   Although there are moorings, we are so disappointed that we decide to sail on to Virgin Gorda.

We had heard that the marina there is open – and they are. When we call in, we inquire as to electric hookups and as we understand the broken English reply, there is. However, as we dock, we are told there isn't. We quickly decided that rather than a two day stay with full hookups, we elect to only stay one night.

Our boat (the one on the left) is really big (50'), but looks small compared to the one behind us!

Spainishtown has been hit hard by the hurricanes. There are many boats in the adjoining boat yard that have been blown over.

We take a taxi to the Baths. The surf is rough and getting into and out of the water is a real challenge, knocking us around quite badly.

But we salvage the day with a walk through the rocks.

Butch and Linda K

Nice dinner ashore.

Virgin Islands Vol. 1

Monday,  April 9

Yesterday, we headed North, leaving Key West after a great winter. The last two weeks have been especially nice because we were on the front row of Hollywood, which provide a nice view of the water. The weather has been somewhat warmer, making air conditioning nice to have.

The nights have been rather warm. I'm not sure I'd like to be here in dry camping in the summer. It
seems you'd have to run the generator all night (which is against the rules).

We had a pleasant drive UTR (Up The Road) to Markham Park in Broward County.  It was nice to be
back driving the Coach – doing what it does best – taking us on new adventures.

We arrived mid-afternoon and immediately saw Lynn and Bob.  They are also leaving their RV here while we go to the Virgin Islands.

And they are parked right next to us. We got together for dinner and the rest of the evening we spent

getting ready for the trip tomorrow.

This morning we got up early and finished up all the little details required to get the coach ready to be
left alone for a couple of weeks.  The biggest concern with leaving the coach and car (we rode to the airport with Bob) is the two Hobie Kayaks on the top of the car. I've bought very heavy duty bicycle locks to secure them.  Hope it works.

The check-in at the airport was hectic, convincing us once more that it is no longer any fun at all to travel by air.  It seems the width of the seats and the distance between rows has been again shortened. My knees were touching the seat back in front of me the entire trip.

But we did arrive here in St Thomas.

The airport welcome sign is a forecast of things to come

Bob, Lynn, Steve, and Linda were on the same flight.  Butch and Linda K had arrived earlier, along with
our previously unknown 9th crew member, Jim.  Jim had picked up our rental car and we all piled in
and headed to the boat.

And what a boat it is.  A 50-foot catamaran with 5 cabins (actually there are 7 cabins if you include the two bow crew cabins).  We settled in, had a delicious dinner at the Hook and Anchor, and then the ladies, along with poor old Jim and Butch took off to buy liquor ($300) and food ($500).  They returned, wepacked the food away and crashed .

We have noted very little damage as a result of Hurricane Irma as of yet.

The Crew:  Steve, Butch, Lynn, Linda K, Clara, Linda D, Jim and Bob (Dave taking picture)

Dinner at the "Hook and Anchor"

Tuesday, April 10

Very gradually, we check out the boat, get last minute provisions, check everything and we're finally off.  

And the winds are howling out of the East. And we're heading – West! We've confirmed during the
boat check out that it is really a major effort to raise the mainsail, so we elect to motor the few miles
to Christmas Cove.  Good decision! The seas are running 6 to 8 feet and we're dead into them.
It really doesn't make for a great first day for sailing (or for being out in the ocean for that matter).
And we want to make sure everyone is comfortable on their first day. We motor slowly upwind and arrive fairly early at what we thought would be a relatively deserted anchorage.  But alas, all of the moorings are already taken. So we anchor. As soon as we're settled, I snorkel out to the anchor to make

sure it is well set – and it is.

First dinner aboard

Butch enjoys sitting on the bow in 6 - 8 foot seas

Jim, Bob and Dave start learning how to handle the boat.

The ladies all bought matching dresses

This morning before we left the dock, Clara went to the fish house a short distance from the marina
and bought and fileted 3 Blue Runners and tonight we had them for dinner.  Fresh fish! Nothing like
it.

Showing the locals how it's done!!

We settle in for a great evening, floating and swimming, drinking and eating.

Sunsets are always a favorite

Wednesday, April 11 and Thursday, April 12

Yes! these are sharks off the back of the boat!!

And this is Clara off the back of the boat - without the sharks

Thursday we take the opportunity to learn a lot more about sailing the boat.  We spent a good part of the

day sailing and teaching the newbies on board some of what we are figuring out. It's a teach as you learn

experience

Friday:  We decide early that with these strong winds that we'll start the day with reefed sails.  This is after a great breakfast of eggs and bacon.

After raising the sails, the very first thing we do is lose one of the big cushions overboard in the wind.  
After several tries, we are able to retrieve it with the sail up. A very difficult maneuver with a mast over 75 feet high with nearly 1,000 sq. ft. of sail.  It was a great exercise in man overboard and handling the boat.

One of the better anchorages around St John is Francis Bay. There are few boats in the mooring field
and we have a choice of moorings. After settling in, we start snorkeling. There's not a lot to look at,
but we find a spot that has 6-8 turtles and everyone spends most of the afternoon watching the turtles.  
They all have “sucker” fish eating the barnacles off them.

We must have swam with the turtles for hours.  The turtles did not seem to be bothered with us swiming close to them.

We want to make sure all the crew have an opportunity to learn as much as possible about boat
handling, but Steve and I quickly realize that we also have a lot to learn before we start trying to teach
others.  This is a big boat – and it's a catamaran. It does not sail close to the wind – about the best we
can get is 55 degrees off the wind.

Additionally, raising the main sail and tacking this brute is a major challenge.  The lines get hung in the
mast (which has a lot of stuff on it) every time we tack.  As Steve and I go through all the issues, we
start figuring out how to control the beast and clean up the mast.

The water is incredibly clear with visibilites of 75 to 100 feet

Tonight we are again on a mooring in the Virgin Island National Park in Francis Bay.  And WOW!
What a great spot.

After a great afternoon in the water, we settle in for another great meal aboard and to bed.